With so much hype about HD lace, I want to take the time to tell you why you probably don't even need it. So let's start with the denier. There are different deniers of lace.
So let me break down what denier is. So denier, by definition, is a unit of measurement that is used to determine the fiber thickness of individual threads or filaments used in the creation of textiles and fabrics.
So the higher denier, the heavier your material or lace is. That means opera lace, bass lace, and French lace are all a heavier denier because of the weight and thickness (typically 30 denier or higher).
Film lace, which is not the same as HD lace, is a lighter denier of fabric (typically 20 denier and lower). The lighter the lace, the more fragile it is.
Now, HD lace is amazing, but it's not good for everyday use. In fact, you can check out this video right here where I break down HD lace.
Here's why you don't need it. HD Lace was designed to be used in film because of how transparent it is. It's nearly undetectable on camera. It was only meant to be worn a few times. With a wig that you're going to need for daily use, a film lace with 20-25 denier will be totally fine.
If you're not making lace wigs yourself, be sure you are buying from someone who uses quality materials, because a lot of times, just because it says it's HD lace, does not mean it's true HD lace.
In this video, I expose the truth about HD Lace Wigs! There's often a misconception about the different types of lace. HD lace is very fine and extremely transparent. Despite what you may be hearing, HD Lace is not recommended to be worn every day. Check out the video for all of the deets.
Hey it's Marquetta Breslin and I'm back with another video. So today I decided to do a video to break down what HD lace really is. HD lace has been around for very long time and it's been used in theater and films so it's not something that just came on the scene, it's something that's been around for a really long time and for those people who are truly interested in the wig making, and when I say wig making, I mean all aspects like what I teach, from creating the cap, creating the mold, creating the cap, ventilating all of that stuff. You definitely want to head over to AtelierBassi and invest in their lace sample booklet.
If you don't have a background knowledge in the different types of lace and you get this booklet, it will blow your mind. There's many different types of lace and Mr. Bassi is one of, I don't know how many there are in the world, but I know that Mr. Bassi does have the machines, the real machines to make lace, the lace that we see, the real lace, I'll say that. The real lace, which is what I'm gonna get to next. All right, so that's step number one is educating yourself on the different types of lace. You have thermal lace, you have coated lace, you have film lace, you have opera lace, you have stretch lace, you have all different types of lace. Okay? So let's start there.
Now, when it comes to HD lace, there's a misconception and the misconception, I believe that is being, well let's say the misunderstanding, with these lace wigs that have HD lace now, is that oh my gosh, this HD lace is amazing and it is, but true HD lace is not something that is to be worn on a wig that you're gonna put on and take off every single day. And I'm going to explain to you why in just a second. So what I have here, is I just wanted to show you just have three different types of lace, okay? This is an opera lace A.K.A base lace, all right? That is typically used on the back part of the wig. This is not to be used on a closure, frontal or anything in the front part of the wig because it is so thick, all right?
So, when we're making wigs and you can see here, that it is very, very thick. Okay? So when we're making wigs, this is not used in the front part of the wig. It's typically used all around the nape band area, which is back here, in the crown and maybe up here at the top. This does not go anywhere else, all right? So that's opera lace. A lot of people may call this french lace. The real wig-making term is opera lace A.K.A base lace. All right? Then you have film lace and with all different types of laces there's different deniers of lace. The lighter the denier, which means like if it's a 15 denier, 20 denier the thinner the lace. So something like this is going to be a heavier denier, okay? So this is a piece of coated film lace from Atelier Bassi, okay? Now I'm American, so I hope I'm sayin' that name correctly. All right so what I have here, now, I do sell lace on my website. This is how it comes. This is the opera lace which is this right here. I don't really wanna take it apart and take it out of the cute little baggie there, so what I'm gonna do is, I'm gonna just open it up here, even thought I've opened it before so that you can see, see it again, how thick that lace is.
Now what I am gonna do though, is I'm gonna open up this HD lace and I've been carrying this lace on my website for over a year now, for a couple years now and in fact, in the lace wig training system 2.0, I brought in an instructor from the U.K and her name is Gemma Dillon. Now Gems, in the section that she taught, was teaching cap construction and when she got to the front part of the wig, she used HD lace, but, but in using the HD lace, there was a very strategic thing that she did, when using the lace. All right? She didn't just plop the lace on like normal, okay? Because this is, if you could feel this, it is super, if I just took it here and pulled it, I would rip in with no strength at all. Not like it's gonna tear, but I mean if I put a little bit of force behind it, it's gonna rip and tear and gonna be a mess, okay? But, there is a strategic way to use this, when it is used there is a strategic way that it is to be used because it is so fragile. So it's a way that they make it a little bit more durable and that's by folding it in half.
Now, I know you're thinking, “Well now if I fold it in half, it's gonna be visible.” Hear me out. Not only do you fold it in half, but when you do fold it in half and you get to that hairline area, 'cause you know, HD lace is going to be used in either a frontal or closure. Once you get to the hairline area, you're not going to fold that part over. As you're ventilating, you will only pick up that top layer of lace and you'll cut everything else out underneath, okay? Okay, so this lace, I'm gonna put it up against my skin and you will see how amazing, it virtually disappears on any skin, okay? Now from where I'm sitting, I'm looking at my other camera over here, I can't see a thing. Now sitting on top, if I were to use adhesive on this, it would completely disappear.
Now, you could even just lightly tint this. I could lightly tint this if I wanted to and then boom, it is completely, completely invisible. But I want you to understand that on going back to this, this film lace right here and comparing the two, even in terms of feel, I can tell that this is a heavier denier than this but if I put the two up against each other, it's a difference and you can see that difference. So my point in doing this video is to educate you on what true HD lace is. HD is high definition lace that is to be used, typically in television and movies and it's not designed to be used on a piece that you're going to wear every single day because it's such a fine, fine, fine piece of lace and it can easily rip or tear. So, what's probably being used, and there's no way for me to order a wig from all of these vendors that are saying they're using HD lace, there's no way for me to do that but in my mind, what's probably being used is just finer denier or thinner denier of film lace. Not true HD lace.
HD lace is not durable enough to be used on a wig that you wear every day unless you're doubling that lace, it'll last a little bit longer but it's still gonna be super duper fragile. All right. Before I go, I just want to remind you that I am opening up enrollment again for the lace wig training system. I was about to say 2.0, we dropped the 2.0 off of the title, but we're opening up enrollment again. February 14th, 2020 and you do not want to miss it. This system has been responsible for training thousands of students from over 70 countries and I cannot wait for everybody to get their hands on all of the new material that I have coming up. I can't even say what I have coming but I promise you that it is going to blow your mind. So, if you haven't already, go over to LaceWigTrainingSystem.com and register, get your email, give us your email so that you'll be notified when we go live but most importantly, listen, I have a free training, it's two 20 minute videos, it's almost, let's see, that's 40 minutes of training to teach you how to make a hybrid wig. I mean from creating the closure from scratch, ventilating it, using the sewing machine, all that good stuff, I'm giving that to you for free. All you gotta do is sign up for the early bird list so go over to LaceWigTrainingSystem.com. I also have another bonus for you there as well. Don't miss out. This is going to be amazing. All right, I'll see you on the next video.
Now front lace, so many different kinds. So many different deniers, different coated laces, different colors. Obviously for every day use, I would not recommend us to be using HD lace, such as this. A 40 denier, or theater lace, stunt lace if you've heard of it like that, definitely much better for every day use. However, for the film and TV wigs that I'm used to making, what we do, you would never use a single lace of HD like that, at all. So what we tend to do is fold it over and double it to make it a little bit stronger. It will still be HD on the very edge and you're gonna pick up that top layer but I will show you that when we go into the hairlines. And again, it's so delicate so any snags you've got on your fingernails, and I always keep a nail file in my kit, just in case, because if you've just put a nice HD front lace on there and you go and like nick a hole in it with your fingernail, you're done. You know.
On lines forward, so personally for me, lines going across gives you a lot more leeway with the directions and I just feel it creates a bit more of a natural flow when it comes to the hairlines especially. So, what I'm gonna do now is I'm gonna just make sure that I've got enough folded over to incorporate the parting. Both sides to either side of the ear and that I've got enough in the front here, not so that it's so short that I'm blocking it and it's pulling really tightly but I wanna make sure that I've got enough length down here that I can block it tight enough to get a good tension when I want those tight knots. So what I want to make sure is that I've got definitely enough to come all the way back to the part here. And enough lace coming down here that I can block it nice and tightly with some glue or just with pins. But I don't want it, I don't want it so far from the back of the parts that I don't have enough room to you know, do my double seam back there. But again, I don't want too much excess lace down here either. So somewhere nice and in the middle. Maybe four or five inches from the hairline. Just to make sure you've got enough to go from front to back.
One of the most frequently asked questions I get is “Do you need a license to make lace wigs?” The answer is no! If you are working on a wig only. But once you start styling, cutting, and dying the wig you will need your license. To learn more watch this video!
– Some of the best wig makers who have been in the industry for many, many years, don't have a cosmetology license. Yet, in the theater and film industry, they still may use something like toupee tape or spirit gum or something like that to attach wigs. ♪ Breslin Breslin Breslin ♪ ♪ Author and the speaker ♪ ♪ Master stylist using every gift I got to teach her ♪ ♪ Just wanna reach her ♪ ♪ When life changing motivation is his key ♪ ♪ You can look wealthy ♪ ♪ But no the greater is he ♪ ♪ It's Marquetta B ♪ ♪ Breslin Breslin Breslin ♪
– Hey, it's Marquetta Breslin, and I'm back with another video. In this video, I want to answer a question that a lot of people ask and that question is, “Do I need a license, a cosmetology license, “to make lace wigs?” All right, the short answer to that question is no. Lemme explain. When you're making a lace wig, it does not necessarily mean you will ever touch a client. Case in point. Years ago I had to make a couple of pieces for a feature film. I never even touched the main character. Never even saw him unless I googled his name, the person that I was making the wig for. Never had to touch him. The company that contracted me sent me his mold and I took it from there and made the pieces for him. That does not require me to have a cosmetology license because I never have to even touch or physically see the client. Now, there's a gray area. Let's say you are making wigs and you are putting them on people. Technically, the adhesive that you're working with is considered a chemical. However, some of the best wig makers who have been in the industry for many, many years, don't have a cosmetology license. Yet, in the theater and film industry, they still may use something like toupee tape or spirit gum or something like that to attach wigs. Technically, if you're just making lace wigs, no you do not need a cosmetology license. But if you plan on cutting them and styling them and coloring them, then yes, I would highly suggest you get a cosmetology license because to get professional products, you need a license. Yes, you can order on Amazon or somewhere like that, but you want to be working with professional grade products that are backed by the company purchased from somewhere that requires you to have a license like a CosmoProf or a SalonCentric or something like that. Armstrong, McCall's, something like that. First you have to decide in your mind what is it that I want to do with this skill and then the next thing you have to decide is okay, do I need to get a license or is this the only thing I want to do is just make wigs. Even when you're making a mold, let's be very, very clear. Even when you're making the mold and you have either the seller tape or the opaque tape or whatever tape you decide to use and you're making the mold, technically, depending on that state that you live in, if you braid that hair down or pincurl that hair, you are technically touching the client and it depends on the laws in that state whether or not you're allowed to do that without a license or not. I always suggest people to contact the state board where they live so that they make sure they're in compliance because the last thing you want is for someone try to sue you because of whatever reason. The last wing you want is that, so it's very important for you to be mindful of that before you go down that arena at all. In most cases, I'll say 98% of the time, you're totally fine even if you have to braid the hair down or do whatever you're going to do to make that mold. ‘Cause remember, if you haven't seen this video, I will link you to the video at the end of this video because it is very important that that hair is prepared the same way throughout the entire wig making process or else it's not gonna fit properly. That is the long answer to that question. I wanna thank you so much for taking the time to watch this video and I'll talk to you soon.
Laying a proper foundation is vital to achieving the correct size for your wig. For your foundation to lay flat and smooth, you have to measure your head correctly. You must make sure that the hair underneath is braided down or slicked back during the measuring process and before you apply the lace wig. Doing so creates a seamless, more natural look.
– The measuring tape and I go, “What?” “So she didn't remove your sew-in, “and like, it just wow, why?” ♪ Breslin, Breslin, Breslin ♪ ♪ Author and speaker ♪ ♪ Master stylist ♪ ♪ Using every gift I got to teach ya ♪ ♪ Just wanna reach ya ♪ ♪ With life changin' motivation ♪ ♪ This is key ♪ ♪ You can live wealthy ♪ ♪ But know that greater is he. ♪ ♪ It's Marquetta B ♪ ♪ Breslin, Breslin, Breslin ♪
– Hey, it's Marquetta Breslin, and I'm back with another video. So in this video, I'm going to be answering a question that I get all the time. And it's about how to make sure your wig fits properly every time. And really, the answer can be both for the consumer, and for the person that is installing the wig if it's not the consumer. So, I'm just gonna start by sharing a story with you. So, I'm at my salon. A lot of people don't know that I use to have a brick-and-mortar salon. It was a private salon where a lot of people who suffered from hair loss would come because it was private. And that's where I would do my thing. So, I had a young lady come in one day. And she just could not understand why her wig was so big, and it was big. Her circumference, I believe, was somewhere around a 21-21 1/2. But the wig was about a 22-23. Okay, so that's a lot. That's a big difference. So, I begin to sit her down, and ask her some questions. And one of the questions that I asked her was, how were your measurements taken? What happened? Take me through the process. Because I was tryin' to understand what this stylist did. And the first thing she says is, “I go in, I sit down. “My sew-in is still in. “And she takes “up the measuring tape.” And I go, “What?” “So she didn't remove your sew-in, “and like, it just, wow, why?” So here's the thing, if you're gonna take measurements with the full sew-in in, you better put that wig over that full sew-in, too. Because… However you take the measurements for the wig, for the mold, for cap, for whatever it is you wanna do, that is the the same way that hair needs to be prepared for the fitting and for the wearer of the wig. Her hair should not have been in a sew-in. Her hair should have been prepared either cornrowed down, or whatever she was gonna do, so that when the wig came in it would actually fit. That sew-in created too much bulk. So to put this into a different perspective, or a different light. Let's say you're starting from scratch. I have several of my students who make wigs from scratch, from the ground up, and they don't use anything pre-made. But this goes for pre-made pieces, too. If you're gonna order a piece, you still need to make sure that that hair is prepared properly underneath, the same way it's gonna be worn when the actual finished product is worn. So, let's say you have a client. And you're gonna make a full lace wig for this client. They come in, you take their measurements, and make their mold. Now, the mold that I'm talkin' about is with the tape, and Saran wrap, and you're doin' your thing, and you're drawing it all out, and all of that stuff, right. So they come in, and you get to work. But the way you prep that hair, let's say you just decide to slick it back, I'm just gonna slick it back. And then you take the mold, you take the measurements. And then they come back in for you to fit the cap, to make sure that the cap that you've constructed, fits them properly. When they come back in for that cap fitting, and let's say this time, you're like, “Mmm, instead of slicking you back, “I'm just gonna do some pin curls.” Then you put that cap on, guess what? That cap is not going to fit, because the hair that's slicked back, is is tight to the, usually, it's tight to the scalp. When you pin curl that hair it's going to create a little bit of bulk. So that cap, that you just created, based off of what you did the first time, is now going to be too small, because you have bulk. Alright? So, you just have to make sure that if you slick that hair down for the mold and the measurements, you slick it down for the cap fitting. And you slick it down for the wearer of the wig, as well. Now, is the hair gonna grow? Of course, the hair's gonna grow. You can't stop that. But in essence, you wanna make sure that whatever you do for that first thing, which is should not be with the sew-in in, Cornrows, braids. Well, cornrows yes. But I mean, I'm not gonna take my measurements for a wig, with all this hair. Okay. You just don't do that. Alright, so you wanna make sure that whatever you decide to do, for that mold and measurements, you do the same thing throughout the entire process, to ensure the wig fits properly, every single time. Alright. So, that's it. It's simple, easy. You'd be surprised how many people don't understand that. Alright, I wanna thank you so much for watching this video. And I'll talk to you soon.
In this video I share with you the 3 big mistakes I see people make when buying and wearing wigs. The versatility and range of styles you can create with the right wig are endless. The keyword with the right wig! Enjoy!
TRANSCRIPT: I'm holding this so weird. It feels very awkward. It feels like I have somebody in a head lock. ♪ Breslin, Breslin, Breslin ♪ ♪ Author and a speaker ♪ ♪ Master stylist using every gift I got to teach her ♪ ♪ Just want to reach her ♪ ♪ When life changer, motivation is this key ♪ ♪ You can look wealthy but no greater is he ♪ ♪ It's Marquetta B ♪ ♪ Breslin, Breslin ♪ Hey, it's Marquetta Breslin and I'm back with another video and in this video, I'm going to be explaining the three biggest mistakes people make when wearing lace wigs. So let's get right into it. The number one thing that I see, the biggest mistake that I see, is the lace not matching properly and as a result, they have to put on makeup, they have to tint the lace, which is, tinting the lace is not bad. Sometimes you just have to tint lace, even with a higher quality lace, but let's say for a piece like this. So this is a piece that my daughter is working on. This lace, I don't know if you can see it on camera, but this lace, when I put it up against my finger, has a grayish, greenish brown tint to it. Hideous, okay. This is not good. So if you're going to be ordering lace wigs from a vendor, someone overseas on AliExpress or something like that, you want to ask what type of lace they provide. A lot of them say they provide HD lace and it's not HD lace. HD lace, which has become very popular right now actually has been around for a very long time because it's what they use in the television and film industry. So you just want to make sure that a lot of times, if you are ordering pieces from a vendor multiple times over and over again, they can send you samples of the lace that they provide and in doing that, you can be sure to choose a type of lace that better fits your skin. Now here's another piece that I have. This lace, I'm actually not mad at this lace. It has a pinkish undertone to it and while it's thick, this can be tinted to match and it will look fine. The thinner the lace, the better it's going to blend. However, most vendors who are mass producing these wigs are not going to be able to produce them quick enough on that type of lace because it is so fragile. Now here's another piece that, I believe this is another piece that my daughter is working on and this is a piece of film lace. It's actually a piece of coated atelier bassi lace, so it's a little bit more thick than a regular film lace, but it I put this up against my skin, yes it needs to be colored, but it's pretty, it disappears. So that's one of the most common mistakes that I see people making, is not properly disguising the lace. Another thing that I see people doing a lot or people having a lot of issues with is sizing. Either the piece is too big or the piece is too small. That is why it is really important to take a proper measurement. The measurements that are going to matter most, if you're purchasing from a manufacturer is your circumference measurement going from the hairline right here all the way down underneath the occipital bone back here, coming all the way around. That circumference measurement matters, okay? And then going from the top of the forehead here down to the bottom of the nape, that matters. This measurement here matters. Going from the tip of the ear all the way down to the bottom of the hairline. Understanding how to properly measure your head is very important unless you're buying a stock piece. Now a stock piece is a piece that doesn't necessarily fit your measurement to a T, but the circumference works for you and you can make it work. In that case, you may have to customize. So if you get a piece and it's a little bit too big, don't just wear it, try to customize it. If it's too big, one thing that you can do, and I'll show you on this, this is an oversized frontal, but I'll show you on this frontal. So let's say this frontal was too big, and this was the back, let's call this the back. You can cut out two pieces, I'm gonna put it down on the table for a second and pinch this together. You can cut out two pieces in the back that are triangular shaped, pinch those two pieces together and stitch them together to tighten up the back of that wig. So you would do that right back here, okay? I know I need a haircut, I don't want to hear about it in the comments. So you would cut out two pieces right back here, two triangular pieces, pinch those pieces together and sew it down. That's what's going to create that tightness that's going to hug to the nape of the neck and it's going to hold it tighter up here. Now, around here you're gonna have to be very careful around that ear, you don't want to remove too much hair, but in most cases, sizing and tightening it up back there in the back is what's going to make all the difference in the world. Now, if the piece is too small, you may have to cut it and stitch a piece of material or a piece of lace in the back to expand it a little bit and that's where you would need to learn how to ventilate, to go ahead and ventilate hair in those areas or you could just leave it blank, but that would look really, really weird and I would not do that. Alright, so number one is the lace not matching, number two is sizing and number three is density. A lot of times I see people wearing these wigs and the density is way too heavy, and a lot of times that's because they're just buying a stock wig and you get what you get, okay? So there's another of different ways to fix that. A lot of people like plucking, I don't do that, that's not my thing, I'm not hating on anybody that does it. Do what you do. But, what I suggest to do is if you have a piece that's super duper bulky and you want to reduce the amount of bulk in the piece, you can either thin it out with some thinning shears or, if you know how to ventilate and you're well versed in that skill, you can just remove the hair in the places that you don't want and go back in and ventilate hair in places that you do want, which is what we've done right here with this piece. So, this hair in this piece is extremely dense. I'm holding this so weird, it feels very awkward. It feels like I have somebody in a headlock. So this piece right here, look, it's super dense up in here, so what we did was we went through here and we removed the hair in this whole area right here because we want to go back in and customize and ventilate this, but a lot of people don't even know that they can do that. So when you're purchasing pieces, you don't want to order the heaviest density, you want to make sure that you have a lighter density in this area up here because it's gonna look way too dense. If they're not able to do that, like I said, you can thin it out with some thinning shears and then mold it down, or you can just completely remove the hair in the areas that you don't want and go back and ventilate hair in the areas that you do want. But, most vendors will, if you explain to them what you want they will be able to work with you and get you at least halfway there and the last resort, for me, is if you got a plug, just get in there and plug but you've got to be extremely careful not to tear holes in the lace, alright? So those are the three most common mistakes that I see people make when wearing lace wigs. Don't let it be you. Thank you so much for watching and I'll talk to you soon.
Over ten years ago, I posted a video to YouTube called “Create Lace Front Wigs Like A Pro!”. That video was the catalyst for a lot of emerging wigmakers, and still to this day is one of my most popular videos.
I get a lot of comments on that video, and I thought I'd record a video responding to some of the comments I've gotten on that video.
Anyone who knows me knows that I love my students. It's both an honor and a privilege to be able to train and mentor some of the most amazing people on the planet, and this young lady is no different. …
What is the real difference between single drawn hair and double drawn hair? In this video, I explain the differences so you can be knowledgeable the next time you have to order from a supplier to make a lace wig, or if you're purchasing wefts to wear for a sew-in.