Tutorial: How To Apply A Clear Gloss

Marquetta Breslin

Marquetta Breslin

March 7, 2014

VIDEO TRANSCRIPT:

Hey it's Marquetta Breslin, and I am here with a Q & A. Now this Q & A is a little bit different, because it's more of a hands on Q & A. I got a question from a stylist who's having issues with her client's hair looking dull all the time, so instead of answering her just via email or with a talking head Q & A, I decided to do a demo because I'm having the same issue with my little client right here. So, my client here has some dull, looking a little bit lifeless hair, and what I mean by dull is that it's lacking shine. SO what we're going to do, is we're going to apply a clear glaze. What is a clear glaze Marquetta? A clear glaze is basically a clear hair color. So I'm using the Wella line, the color touch line. Now with Wella, their demi-permanent line has some amazing conditioning agents, and they really really make the hair shine and look really really good. I am not using color on her hair, it is clear. It's completely clear, and what it's going to do because the color touch line adds so much shine, “Honey your hair looks all shiny and beautiful after you get it colored,” If you go to a professional. Wella Color Touch is a professional line, what this clear glaze is going to do, it's going to put a permanent shine on the hair.

I say permanent, the demi-permanents wash out, but it is going to put a shine on the hair. Now with my client, I know she has highly porous hair, so that shine is going to last a little bit longer than it normally would on someone with not so porous hair. So it's going to be applied the exact same way that you would apply normal hair color. Now you could use an applicator bottle, or you can use a brush. I am, for instructional purposes, going to use a brush, and I'm going to apply the color in sections. Now, with Wella Color Touch, you have to have the hair damp. So I am going to shampoo and condition her hair, and then I am going to towel dry and then we will begin the application process.

Now we're getting ready to begin the application of the glaze. So, if you have someone that has longer hair, you're going to want to part the hair in four sections, from the top of the forehead to the nape, and then from ear to ear. My client doesn't have long hair, it's going to be challenging for me to do that, but I'm still going to do it, because it's the correct way to do it. And I'm demonstrating to you, I'm doing a tutorial, so I want to show you how to do it the correct way. So it's just like a relaxer application, or a normal color application. So I'm going to section her off, and I'm going to turn her around, move some stuff out of the way. You see how that back section is? As with cutting hair or working with any type of hair color, you always want to keep your sections clean. Now again, the color line I'm working with is Wella Color Touch, and it requires the hair to be damp during the application process. You can use an applicator bottle, or you can use a color mixing bowl which is what I'm using. It's what I'm comfortable with and I can work really quickly. Always wear gloves, always drape your client, and you do want to put the barrier cream around the forehead, and you always want to do a patch test.

So I have my two sections. Now what I'm going to do, hold your head up sweetie, I'm going to part from ear to ear, and then once you do your part from ear to ear, you can use an alligator clip and section that top hair off. Alright? Always keep your sections clean. It's a little bit more challenging for me because her hair is short, so I'm going to turn her around, and I'm going to start my other section. Same thing, from ear to ear. Then you want to clip it off. Now, for the actual application process, I'm not going to use clips back here because I have really nothing to clip. Now you want to start to apply without getting the product directly on the scalp. Again, yo do not want to get the product on the scalp. Apply your product around the perimeter, and then you're going to begin to section the hair throughout, taking very small slices. Again, keep your sections clean. It's very important when you're working with hair color, although this is not hair color, but we're going to treat it as it's hair color because it's applied the same way, so it's very important to work with clean sections. It's a little bit more challenging with short hair. So I'm going to continue applying the product throughout the client's hair, using the same techniques that I just talked about, and when you see me again, I will have applied all of the product. Now for a glaze, before I go I have to say this: for a glaze, the product should be applied from roots, all the way to the ends. You don't want just the roots glossy. We're not doing a re-touch. With the glaze, the product is going to be applied from roots to ends. Again keep your sections clean, and work the product all the way to the ends. Do not get any on the scalp.

So, I'm going to use a hair steamer, and let it process for 10 minutes instead of the full 20 minutes, and then we'll be good to go. Okay, so the gloss has been completely rinsed out, and with color touch from Wella, I have a post-service treatment that I apply to it as well, and it's basically like a heavy, heavy conditioner that works wonders, you have no idea. It's amazing, okay that's… I can't say enough about it! Alright, and you can see, her hair already looks more shiny. It looks healthier already, which is what we were going for. So now for the styling process, I'm just going to layer two products and I'm going to apply it to her hair, get it into the shape that I want it, and then I'm going to use my little portable dryer here, and I'm just going to let her dry, and then you'll see the finished product. So the two products I'm using is design essentials, they're curl enhancing moose. I really like this stuff a lot. And I'm just going to apply it by just running my fingers all throughout the hair. Yeah, it's going to look white, it's going to look crazy for a minute. I want to use enough, because sometimes with curly hair, curly… All curly hair is different, obviously, but her hair is fine but it's a lot of it. So it's thick, meaning she has a lot of fine hair, so sometimes if I don't use a lot of product, depending on what the product is, she'll still get areas that are poofy.

So with her hair, I have to use a lot of product that soaks it up, and you're going to want to experiment with your clients. If you haven't already worked with them in the past, you're going to want to start with a little bit of product and then add it as you go. So I'm just going to add a little bit more, because I didn't get this side over here, and everything is going to look white for a minute with this curl enhancing moose. And I really do like this product, from design essentials. It's a really good product, and it does work for different hair types. I'm going to apply a little bit more through here. Now what I'm going to use to set these curls… And I'm just going to apply all the product, and then I'm going to go through and style it the way I want it. What I'm going to use to set these curls is the pearl styler from Wella, and this is just a styling jell that's in a bottle, and it's very thick. Now, I'm not going to use a whole lot of this, because like I said it's thick, and a little bit goes a long ways with this particular product. And I'm just going to set her curls in place, just going to go through and make sure every strand is covered, even down to the roots. Because with curly hair, if those roots are not covered you'll have poofyness at the roots, and I know my little client here does not like bulky hair.

Now I'm just finger combing the hair, just to distribute that product through, and I'm parting the hair with my fingers to section… You'll notice I'm not using a comb. I'm not using any implements because my fingers are doing the work. And I'm just manipulating the hair in the way I want it to dry, and I'm distributing the product at the same. Now, because her hair is short in the back, I am going to go ahead and pick up my comb, and just kind of separate those curls a little bit on the sides, to create a different type of look. So I'm going to use a wide tooth comb. So I'm going to comb the hair up, and then I'm going to go through and kind of separate to create the look, and set it the way I want it. Then I'm going to put her underneath the dryer, and when you see her, she will be all done.

Now, once you have the hair set the way you want it, and remember: it's not set in stone, you're just manipulating it to get it into the shape you want it, so that when it dries you can manipulate it some more, or leave it just like that. Now I've cut quite a bit of her hair off, especially in this area. So it's a lot easier for me to work with, but it's also different, because we haven't worked with this length with her hair before. Okay, so this is a portable dryer, so all I'm going to do is put this down, and then you're going to hear it turn on, and I'm going to let her hair set, and then when you see us, we'll be completely done.

Okay, and there you have it, we are all done, this is just the finished product after the gloss was applied to the client's hair. And I'll spin her around, you can see it looks a lot more healthy, and it's just very pretty. Super curly. There you have it! So some things you want to remember: as stylists, you always want to wear gloves, because even when you're working with a gloss, it's clear, you're not going to get any color stains or anything like that, you're not working with hair color. But, you always want to wear gloves, you always want to work with the hair in sections, and always follow the rules. Keep your sections clean, drape your clients, use a towel, you know the drill. And always follow the instructions of the manufacturer that you're working with. So if you're working with Wella, I know that that mixing ratio for color touch is one to two, one part color, to two parts developer. I always work with the manufacturer's directions. So you always want to do that, and just have fun. Educate your clients, make sure you're applying the product in the correct manner, and you'll be good to go. Alright, so that's it for this tutorial, I hope you enjoyed it, I hope you learned something, and I'll see you on the next one.

 

 

 

Marquetta Breslin

Marquetta Breslin

Marquetta Breslin is the creator of Million Dollar Stylist, Lace Wig Training System, Fully Booked, and many others. While she is known for her knowledge and wisdom passed on to other beauty professionals, she teaches her practical and inspirational lessons to people around the world on how to better their lives, their businesses, and themselves. Be notified on new articles, news, and events by subscribing to Marquetta's Daily Journal.
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