The Truth About HD Lace Wigs


By Marquetta Breslin


In this video, I expose the truth about HD Lace Wigs! There's often a misconception about the different types of lace. HD lace is very fine and extremely transparent. Despite what you may be hearing, HD Lace is not recommended to be worn every day. Check out the video for all of the deets.


Hey it's Marquetta Breslin and I'm back with another video. So today I decided to do a video to break down what HD lace really is. HD lace has been around for very long time and it's been used in theater and films so it's not something that just came on the scene, it's something that's been around for a really long time and for those people who are truly interested in the wig making, and when I say wig making, I mean all aspects like what I teach, from creating the cap, creating the mold, creating the cap, ventilating all of that stuff. You definitely want to head over to AtelierBassi and invest in their lace sample booklet.

If you don't have a background knowledge in the different types of lace and you get this booklet, it will blow your mind. There's many different types of lace and Mr. Bassi is one of, I don't know how many there are in the world, but I know that Mr. Bassi does have the machines, the real machines to make lace, the lace that we see, the real lace, I'll say that. The real lace, which is what I'm gonna get to next. All right, so that's step number one is educating yourself on the different types of lace. You have thermal lace, you have coated lace, you have film lace, you have opera lace, you have stretch lace, you have all different types of lace. Okay? So let's start there.

Now, when it comes to HD lace, there's a misconception and the misconception, I believe that is being, well let's say the misunderstanding, with these lace wigs that have HD lace now, is that oh my gosh, this HD lace is amazing and it is, but true HD lace is not something that is to be worn on a wig that you're gonna put on and take off every single day. And I'm going to explain to you why in just a second. So what I have here, is I just wanted to show you just have three different types of lace, okay? This is an opera lace A.K.A base lace, all right? That is typically used on the back part of the wig. This is not to be used on a closure, frontal or anything in the front part of the wig because it is so thick, all right?

So, when we're making wigs and you can see here, that it is very, very thick. Okay? So when we're making wigs, this is not used in the front part of the wig. It's typically used all around the nape band area, which is back here, in the crown and maybe up here at the top. This does not go anywhere else, all right? So that's opera lace. A lot of people may call this french lace. The real wig-making term is opera lace A.K.A base lace. All right? Then you have film lace and with all different types of laces there's different deniers of lace. The lighter the denier, which means like if it's a 15 denier, 20 denier the thinner the lace. So something like this is going to be a heavier denier, okay? So this is a piece of coated film lace from Atelier Bassi, okay? Now I'm American, so I hope I'm sayin' that name correctly. All right so what I have here, now, I do sell lace on my website. This is how it comes. This is the opera lace which is this right here. I don't really wanna take it apart and take it out of the cute little baggie there, so what I'm gonna do is, I'm gonna just open it up here, even thought I've opened it before so that you can see, see it again, how thick that lace is.

Now what I am gonna do though, is I'm gonna open up this HD lace and I've been carrying this lace on my website for over a year now, for a couple years now and in fact, in the lace wig training system 2.0, I brought in an instructor from the U.K and her name is Gemma Dillon. Now Gems, in the section that she taught, was teaching cap construction and when she got to the front part of the wig, she used HD lace, but, but in using the HD lace, there was a very strategic thing that she did, when using the lace. All right? She didn't just plop the lace on like normal, okay? Because this is, if you could feel this, it is super, if I just took it here and pulled it, I would rip in with no strength at all. Not like it's gonna tear, but I mean if I put a little bit of force behind it, it's gonna rip and tear and gonna be a mess, okay? But, there is a strategic way to use this, when it is used there is a strategic way that it is to be used because it is so fragile. So it's a way that they make it a little bit more durable and that's by folding it in half.

Now, I know you're thinking, “Well now if I fold it in half, it's gonna be visible.” Hear me out. Not only do you fold it in half, but when you do fold it in half and you get to that hairline area, 'cause you know, HD lace is going to be used in either a frontal or closure. Once you get to the hairline area, you're not going to fold that part over. As you're ventilating, you will only pick up that top layer of lace and you'll cut everything else out underneath, okay? Okay, so this lace, I'm gonna put it up against my skin and you will see how amazing, it virtually disappears on any skin, okay? Now from where I'm sitting, I'm looking at my other camera over here, I can't see a thing. Now sitting on top, if I were to use adhesive on this, it would completely disappear.

Now, you could even just lightly tint this. I could lightly tint this if I wanted to and then boom, it is completely, completely invisible. But I want you to understand that on going back to this, this film lace right here and comparing the two, even in terms of feel, I can tell that this is a heavier denier than this but if I put the two up against each other, it's a difference and you can see that difference. So my point in doing this video is to educate you on what true HD lace is. HD is high definition lace that is to be used, typically in television and movies and it's not designed to be used on a piece that you're going to wear every single day because it's such a fine, fine, fine piece of lace and it can easily rip or tear. So, what's probably being used, and there's no way for me to order a wig from all of these vendors that are saying they're using HD lace, there's no way for me to do that but in my mind, what's probably being used is just finer denier or thinner denier of film lace. Not true HD lace.

HD lace is not durable enough to be used on a wig that you wear every day unless you're doubling that lace, it'll last a little bit longer but it's still gonna be super duper fragile. All right. Before I go, I just want to remind you that I am opening up enrollment again for the lace wig training system. I was about to say 2.0, we dropped the 2.0 off of the title, but we're opening up enrollment again. February 14th, 2020 and you do not want to miss it. This system has been responsible for training thousands of students from over 70 countries and I cannot wait for everybody to get their hands on all of the new material that I have coming up. I can't even say what I have coming but I promise you that it is going to blow your mind. So, if you haven't already, go over to and register, get your email, give us your email so that you'll be notified when we go live but most importantly, listen, I have a free training, it's two 20 minute videos, it's almost, let's see, that's 40 minutes of training to teach you how to make a hybrid wig. I mean from creating the closure from scratch, ventilating it, using the sewing machine, all that good stuff, I'm giving that to you for free. All you gotta do is sign up for the early bird list so go over to I also have another bonus for you there as well. Don't miss out. This is going to be amazing. All right, I'll see you on the next video.

Now front lace, so many different kinds. So many different deniers, different coated laces, different colors. Obviously for every day use, I would not recommend us to be using HD lace, such as this. A 40 denier, or theater lace, stunt lace if you've heard of it like that, definitely much better for every day use. However, for the film and TV wigs that I'm used to making, what we do, you would never use a single lace of HD like that, at all. So what we tend to do is fold it over and double it to make it a little bit stronger. It will still be HD on the very edge and you're gonna pick up that top layer but I will show you that when we go into the hairlines. And again, it's so delicate so any snags you've got on your fingernails, and I always keep a nail file in my kit, just in case, because if you've just put a nice HD front lace on there and you go and like nick a hole in it with your fingernail, you're done. You know.

On lines forward, so personally for me, lines going across gives you a lot more leeway with the directions and I just feel it creates a bit more of a natural flow when it comes to the hairlines especially. So, what I'm gonna do now is I'm gonna just make sure that I've got enough folded over to incorporate the parting. Both sides to either side of the ear and that I've got enough in the front here, not so that it's so short that I'm blocking it and it's pulling really tightly but I wanna make sure that I've got enough length down here that I can block it tight enough to get a good tension when I want those tight knots. So what I want to make sure is that I've got definitely enough to come all the way back to the part here. And enough lace coming down here that I can block it nice and tightly with some glue or just with pins. But I don't want it, I don't want it so far from the back of the parts that I don't have enough room to you know, do my double seam back there. But again, I don't want too much excess lace down here either. So somewhere nice and in the middle. Maybe four or five inches from the hairline. Just to make sure you've got enough to go from front to back.

Be blessed,
Marquetta Breslin Signature

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Marquetta Breslin

Marquetta Breslin is the creator of Million Dollar Stylist, Lace Wig Training System, Fully Booked, and many others. While she is known for her knowledge and wisdom passed on to other beauty professionals, she teaches her practical and inspirational lessons to people around the world on how to better their lives, their businesses, and themselves. Be notified on new articles, news, and events by subscribing to Marquetta's Daily Journal.
Avatar photo

Marquetta Breslin

Marquetta Breslin is the creator of Million Dollar Stylist, Lace Wig Training System, Fully Booked, and many others. While she is known for her knowledge and wisdom passed on to other beauty professionals, she teaches her practical and inspirational lessons to people around the world on how to better their lives, their businesses, and themselves. Be notified on new articles, news, and events by subscribing to Marquetta's Daily Journal.

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